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The Art and History of Dragées
When you pick up a glossy chocolate-covered almond or a perfectly coated espresso bean, you’re holding a confection with centuries of history and craftsmanship behind it. Known as dragées, these bite-sized delights are more than just candy—they’re the result of a delicate balance of tradition, technique, and patience.
A Sweet History
The word dragée comes from the French tradition of sugar-coated confections, which date back to the Middle Ages. Originally, dragées were almonds coated in hardened sugar, considered a luxury and often served at weddings, holidays, and special celebrations as symbols of prosperity and good fortune.
By the 19th century, as chocolate became more widely available, chocolatiers began experimenting—replacing sugar coatings with smooth layers of chocolate. This innovation transformed the dragée into what we know today: chocolate-covered almonds, hazelnuts, coffee beans, candied fruits, and more.
Dragées and Modern Chocolate History
One of the first modern dragées was developed not for luxury, but for practicality. During the late 19th and early 20th century, soldiers needed chocolate that could withstand heat and travel without melting. Candy makers created a sugar shell around chocolate pieces to preserve them—a technique inspired directly by traditional dragées.
This innovation eventually gave rise to Smarties in the UK (introduced in 1937 by Rowntree’s) and later M&M’s in the US (launched in 1941). Both were initially marketed as durable chocolate for soldiers during wartime, designed to “melt in your mouth, not in your hand.” Today, these candies are enjoyed worldwide, but their roots remain firmly connected to the ancient art of dragée-making.
What Makes a Dragée?
Dragées may seem simple, but their makeup is both precise and artistic:
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The Center: Often a toasted nut (almond, hazelnut, pistachio) or roasted coffee bean, but it can also be dried fruit like cherries or orange peel. Each center brings its own flavor and texture.
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The Coating: Fine layers of chocolate—sometimes dark and intense, other times milk chocolate for sweetness, or white chocolate for creaminess. The chocolate must be tempered perfectly to ensure shine, snap, and smoothness.
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The Finish: Many dragées are polished in a traditional panning machine, where the chocolate-coated centers are gently tumbled until they achieve a flawless, glossy finish. Some are dusted with cocoa, icing sugar, or even edible metallic powders for an elegant touch.
The Craftsmanship Behind the Gloss
The art of making dragées lies in patience. Each batch requires repeated layering: a thin pour of tempered chocolate, tumbling, cooling, and repeating—sometimes dozens of times—until the coating is just right. This method ensures the center is fully enrobed without losing its crunch or character.
Chocolatiers also balance flavors carefully. For example, the slight bitterness of espresso beans pairs beautifully with dark chocolate, while buttery hazelnuts shine under a smooth milk chocolate layer. Even the thickness of the chocolate coating is intentional, designed to enhance—not overwhelm—the center.
Why We Love Them
Dragées embody the very heart of chocolate-making: respect for tradition, mastery of technique, and a little bit of artistry. They’re versatile enough to enjoy by the handful, elegant enough for fine dining, and timeless enough to be found in luxury boutiques across Europe.
And, whether it’s a glossy almond, a jewel-like coffee bean, or even a familiar candy-coated chocolate button, each dragée carries with it centuries of confectionery history—proof that small bites can have a very big story.